Mei Zou
The self-taught pattern maker moved to New York with a dream of working in fashion. Her client list now includes Tom Ford, Brandon Maxwell, and more
How did you get your start in New York?
I am originally from South China and I came to this country [from Macau, where I was working] in 1996. Initially, I got a job sewing at a factory but had to leave because the owner was upset that I was taking English classes in the morning. After that my brother, who lived in the city at the time, found me a job at Morgane Le Fay. The manager gave me complicated tests, such as binding work on chiffon. He loved the results and asked me to stay. I would sew samples and they would give me five stars on the wall every month. I stayed for two years and did pattern work and I even wound up correcting some of their patterns. I was told to go to FIT [Fashion Institute of Technology, in New York] to take lessons for pattern making, so I did. I attended weekend classes in the evenings for two years.
Why did you want to work in fashion in the U.S.?
America was everyone's dream when I was growing up. I did not know much about fashion when I first came to America, but people here gave me the opportunities to grow and learn. I have enjoyed every step. The people at Morgane Le Fay were so kind [to me] even though I didn't speak English. I am so grateful for every opportunity that has come my way. I am living my dream right now, although I struggle with balancing work and family. But that is life.
How did the pandemic affect your business?
I was just starting my own business [Mei Studio] when the pandemic hit. I wasn't sure if I would be able to continue, but luckily I got referrals from some of my old co-workers that I worked with at Narciso Rodriguez, and little by little, through word of mouth, people have been contacting me.
How could you be better supported when it comes to working in the fashion industry?
I like the freedom of American fashion, no one judges you for your style or taste. That makes me excited. I don't like the people that don't pay. It is a struggle when people expect the quality of a luxury piece but don't want to pay for the work that goes into it. I don't like people who copy ideas, doing the same thing as another designer and ripping them off to make a cheaper version—it is not good. It’s like fast food, it's disgusting.
I love the care that goes into making each piece. I have worked in the fashion industry for roughly 30 years now, and I have seen the attention to detail decline. But there are still magical moments when I work with a designer who is inspired to create something new and beautiful. That makes me truly happy.
-As told to Sarah Cristobal